Hiking Heaven in the Dolomites

If you’re looking for a trip that combines jaw-dropping scenery with a serious dose of adventure (and some amazing food), look no further than the Dolomites. We just got back from a 5-day trip that absolutely blew us away. Here’s how we did it.

Day 1: Ortisei & Our New Favourite Place to Stay

Our trip started with a super early flight into Venice. From there, we grabbed a rental car and drove about three hours to the beautiful town of Ortisei. We checked into a place called Casa al Sole, and honestly, we fell in love. The owners, Alexandra and Manuel, are the loveliest people. Manuel used to be a chef in Michelin-star restaurants, and it totally shows—the breakfasts were amazing, and his natural wine selections were perfect. After our hikes each day, we spent our afternoons on the terrace, sipping wine and spritzes while soaking in the mountain views. The hotel doubles as a wine bar after 4 p.m., which was just a dream.

Once we settled in, we went straight out for a quick two-hour hike to the Rasciesa Cross and Church. We took the funicular up to the trailhead, which was a bit pricy, but it saved us a lot of time and offered incredible views. There are a couple of rifugios (mountain huts) on the trail where you can stop for a drink, but we were starving, so we went for a cheese and meat board and spritz at the restaurant next to the funicular. It was the perfect way to kick off the trip. Just a heads up, the funicular stops running at 6 p.m., so keep an eye on the time.

For dinner, we went to Maso Parotoni, a family-run spot that served the most delicious traditional food on a set menu. We eat a lot, but we were genuinely stuffed! It was fantastic value for money, and if you can snag a table in their outside cabin, the view is unreal. Remember to bring cash, though, because they don’t take cards. We’d also recommend a taxi for this one, as the final course is a selection of their flavored liqueurs. This was our favourite dinner of the whole trip.

Day 2: The Hike of a Lifetime & Exploring Town

We started day two early by taking the Ortisei cable car up to Seceda. We heard it gets busy, so we wanted to beat the crowds. The Seceda ridge trail was our absolute favourite hike of the trip—it took us about three or four hours, and the views were just insane. We packed a sandwich from a local deli in Ortisei but stopped at a rifugio for a drink (Rifugio Firenze). On our way back, we took the gondola to Santa Christina and caught a bus back to Ortisei. The town itself is so pretty, with tons of restaurants and bars to choose from for dinner. If you have more time, we were sad we couldn’t fit in a trip to Alpe di Siusi—we heard great things.

Day 3: A Road Trip to Cortina

It was tough to say goodbye to our hotel, but we had a full day of driving ahead. We hit the road and made our first stop at the San Giovanni Church, a classic spot for photos. We then drove on to Cinque Torri for a one- to two-hour hike, which is famous for its WWI history, and then to Lago di Braies, where we walked around the lake for about an hour. It was a lot of driving for one day, and in hindsight, we probably would have skipped the church or done it on a different day.

Finally, we checked into the FIORI Dolomites Experience Hotel in San Vito di Cadore, just outside of Cortina, which was our base for the second half of the trip. This place was also a bakery, and it was incredible. The breakfast buffet had the best granola bar and pastry selection we had ever seen. We also ordered packed lunches for our hikes—a huge ham, cheese, and gherkin sandwich, a blueberry tart, and a big apple—which were amazing and a great value. The hotel also had a “snack time” in the late afternoon with fresh pizza and pastries, and they even offered a free cocktail hour every evening! We grabbed a late dinner at Birraria da Bauce, a local chophouse with a winter sports bar vibe. The food was delicious and the portions were hefty. Just be warned, the drinks come in big steins, so a taxi is a good idea.

Day 4: A Challenging But Rewarding Hike

This was the day we tackled the famous Lago di Sorapis hike—a 12km trail that gets super busy. We got there early, and even though we parked in the overflow car park, it was worth it. Be prepared, this is a challenging hike with some parts where you’re basically climbing a cliff face, and there will be lots of other people on the path. But honestly, the experience and views made it all worth it. We grabbed a drink at the rifugio at the top and ate our packed lunch at the lake before heading back down. On the way back, we stopped in Cortina for a quick look around. The town is getting a lot of investment for the upcoming Winter Olympics. It’s popular with tourists so parking was pretty difficult. For dinner, our hotel recommended Al Capriolo, and the food was great with a fantastic view of the mountains. Equally inside looked like a cosy, traditional setting. 

Day 5: Our Last Day of Adventure

We had to check out today, but we had one more hike planned. We were hoping to do the iconic Tre Cime di Lavaredo hike, but we realised too late that you have to book the car park in advance, and it was fully booked. So, we asked the hotel for another recommendation and ended up on the Gores de Federa trail. It was a 10km round trip to a rifugio and back, with lots of waterfalls, gorges, and forests. This hike was tough on the way up, but the hand-made bridges over the waterfalls were so much fun. We were so happy to discover this less touristy hike—it ended up being one of our favourites. We grabbed lunch in Cortina and then made the drive back to the Venice airport.

Tips for Your Trip

• Download the Komoot app: It has tons of great hikes. If you’re staying in Ortisei, you can follow Casa al Sole’s profile for recommendations.
•  Pack light: You’ll spend most of your time in hiking or gym gear. Just bring a couple of comfy outfits for dinner—the vibe is very casual.
•  Save money on food: The region can be expensive. We found that buying packed lunches from bakeries or delis saved a lot of money. If your hotel includes breakfast, eat as much as you can—you’ll need the energy!
•  Ask your hotel for recommendations: They know the best spots, and you might even get a discount. Some of our favourite hikes and restaurants were recommended by our hosts.
•  Book parking in advance: For popular hikes like Tre Cime di Lavaredo and Lago di Braies, you have to book parking at least a day ahead. Your hotel can help with this.
•  Mix it up: While the famous hikes are a must-do, also try some of the less-known trails. They’re just as beautiful and way less crowded. The Rasciesa and Gores de Federa trails were great examples of this.
•  Take a rest day: If you’re staying for more than four days, consider taking a break from hiking to explore a town or have a spa day. The hikes can be challenging, so it’s nice to have some downtime.
•  Wear the right shoes: I wore running trainers, and for some of the trails, I wish I had shoes with better grip. Learn from my mistake!

The Dolomites were a breathtaking experience, and we’re already dreaming of our next trip back. We definitely want to do the Geiser Alm and Alpe di Siusi hikes next time!to WordPress. This is your first post. Edit or delete it, then start writing!