A three-day guide to Edinburgh, covering where to stay in the Old Town and how to explore the city at a relaxed pace. It moves through the main sights like the Royal Mile and the castle, alongside good food spots, bars and cafés, with a slower final day in Stockbridge and along the Water of Leith.
Where to stay
We’d really recommend the Airbnb we stayed in. The Old Roof Apartment is a charming top-floor apartment set within a historic 18th-century building in the heart of Edinburgh’s Old Town. It’s the perfect base for exploring, with the Royal Mile, museums, cafés and restaurants all within easy walking distance.
Day 1 – Old Town & First Impressions
We started our first morning wandering down the Royal Mile, right in the heart of the Old Town. It stretches roughly a mile, connecting Edinburgh Castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, and is lined with historic buildings, hidden alleyways, shops and restaurants.
We were on the hunt for brunch and stumbled across Hula on W Bow, which does great açai bowls and smoothies. W Bow and Victoria Street are also great for a wander, with plenty of independent shops. If you’re a Harry Potter fan, there’s a themed shop here too, plus stops like Mellis Cheese and a whisky shop worth popping into.
No trip to Edinburgh is complete without visiting Edinburgh Castle, and it’s absolutely worth it. Make sure you book tickets in advance. We picked up an audio guide, which we’d recommend, though there are also official guided tours available. Being one of the oldest fortified places in Europe, it has a long rich history as a royal residence, military garrison, prison and fortress, so you really will be walking in the footsteps of soldiers, kings and queens.
For dinner, we went to Ting Thai Caravan on Teviot Place. It has a cool, laid-back vibe and you don’t need to book. The food is super tasty and the portions are generous, which suited us perfectly. Afterwards, we headed to The Jazz Bar for live music and cocktails. It’s such a fun spot with incredible performances every night, definitely one to add to your list.
Day 2 – Views, Museums & Great Food
We started the day with coffee and pastries from Origin Coffee. If you’re exploring further, Lannan Bakery, Ante and The Pastry Section also come highly recommended.
For something a bit different, we headed to Camera Obscura, Scotland’s oldest purpose-built attraction dating back to 1835. Each floor is packed with optical illusions and interactive exhibits, and it’s genuinely fun for all ages. The Camera Obscura itself is fascinating, and the rooftop views are some of the best in the city.
In the afternoon, we jumped on the Big Bus hop-on hop-off tour, which is a really easy way to see more of the city if you’re short on time. There are two routes. The red route covers key landmarks like the Scottish Parliament, National Museum of Scotland, Greyfriars Bobby and the Palace of Holyroodhouse. The blue route goes further out to places like the Royal Botanic Gardens, the Port of Leith, The Shore and the Royal Yacht Britannia. We did both and found it a great way to get our bearings.
For dinner, we booked The Outsider, which we absolutely loved. It has a warm, candlelit atmosphere with views of the castle. The food was excellent, highlights were the crusty artisan bread, steamed mussels and pan-roasted duck. If you’re in the mood for drinks before or after, we had recommendations for Hey Palu, Never Really Here, Panda & Sons and Lucky Liquor Co.
Day 3 – Stockbridge & Slower Exploring
For our final day, we fancied a slower pace and headed over to Stockbridge. It has a lovely village feel, set along the Water of Leith, with independent shops, delis, thrift stores, cafés and gastropubs.
If you’re there on a Sunday, the Stockbridge Market is well worth a visit, running from 10am to 4pm with lots of local produce, street food and handmade goods. You can grab something to eat there or head to The Pantry nearby, which is a great brunch spot.
We highly recommend joining the Water of Leith Walkway for a peaceful stroll along the river. It’s a nice break from the busier parts of the city. From Stockbridge, you can walk to the beautiful Dean Village or towards Leith and it’s port. If you make it to Leith, Ardfern comes recommended for both brunch and dinner. Back towards the centre, Pomelo is also top on our restaurant list for next time.
We had to catch a flight later that day, but if we’d had more time, hiking up Arthur’s Seat would definitely have been on the list. It’s an ancient volcano in Holyrood Park with incredible views over the city.
What a trip. Edinburgh is one of those cities that completely wins you over.