A 5-day guide to Saint-Martin-de-Ré and beyond, featuring cycling routes, beaches, oyster huts, charming villages, and the best food spots on France’s chic Atlantic island.
Île de Ré is one of those places that just feels special the moment you arrive. Just off the west coast of La Rochelle, it’s known for its laid-back island lifestyle, long sandy beaches, oyster huts and charming harbour towns. The whole island is effortlessly chic, with whitewashed houses, colourful shutters and a real local feel.
We think Saint-Martin-de-Ré is the perfect base. Right in the heart of the island, it has a beautiful medieval port, a great market, and plenty of cafés, restaurants and independent shops to wander between. It’s lively enough to have a buzz, but still feels calm and relaxed, plus it’s an ideal starting point for cycling to nearby villages and beaches.
Day 1: Explore Saint-Martin-de-Ré
Start the day with a wander through Saint-Martin’s market, full of fresh fruit, bread, cheese, meats, wine and fish. Afterwards, head to Do Ré Mie for excellent bread and pastries, home to our favourite almond croissant in the world. This quickly became our daily ritual.
Spend the morning exploring the town’s independent boutiques. We love Flamingo and Bonne Espérance for clothing, and Gouverneur for beautiful homeware near the church.
For the best views, climb the tower at the Clocher Observatoire and take in the rooftops and harbour. If you’re keen on a bit of history, the museum by the port is worth a visit too.
In the afternoon, grab a table at Lever du Soleil on the harbour front, order a glass or two of wine, soak up the sunshine (the spot truly lives up to its name) and watch the world go by.
For dinner, head to our favourite restaurant in Saint-Martin – Le Marin. The ideal order: lots of fresh bread, crevettes, côte de bœuf with the most delicious Roquefort sauce followed by lemon meringue pie. Around 10pm the music turns up and the restaurant turns into a lively bar packed with locals. From this point, you must order one of their mighty mojitos.
Day 2: Le Bois-Plage Beach Day
Start slow with coffee and a croissant on the harbour, either back to Lever du Soleil or Do Ré Mie. Then it’s time to hire bikes, the best way to explore the island. We recommend Beach Bikes at the port.
Cycle 10 to 15 minutes through beautiful vineyards to Le Bois-Plage-en-Ré. On the way, stop at Fromagerie Gaiddon for cheese and wine, or pick up supplies from the local market for a beach picnic.
Spend a couple of hours on the long sandy beach, swim in the sea or wander along the boardwalk through the dunes.
For dinner, the beach bar is a great shout, with laid-back vibes, good music, and excellent cocktails and pizza. Les Q Salés is another great nearby option.
Day 3: Long lunch & La Couarde-sur-Mer
For centuries, oyster farming has been at the heart of life on Île de Ré. Today, more than 60 family-run oyster farms continue this tradition, producing oysters in the nutrient-rich waters between the Atlantic Ocean and the island’s salt marshes. They’re then refined in claires (shallow, clay-bottomed ponds) before being served fresh at the island’s oyster huts (cabanes).
We really recommend cycling to la Cabane du Feneau for a long lunch (approx 30-40mins cycle). It’s set among the salt marshes and serves incredible seafood platters and local wine. Top tip, ask for a table overlooking the water.
On the way back, stop in the pretty village of La Couarde-sur-Mer for a wander and a relaxed drink at Hôtel Restaurant Le Vieux Gréement.
If you’re staying in, this is a great evening to cook. Stock up at the local market, nearby supermarkets (intermarché or E.Leclerc) or the corner shop for basics (Carrefour), and make the most of a slow evening with a BBQ, wine, and nowhere to be.
Day 4: La Flotte
Cycle over to La Flotte, around 10 to 15 minutes away, for a relaxed morning. Start at La Martinière for breakfast with a harbour view, simple, delicious, and great value (fresh bread, croissant, homemade frozen yoghurt and fruit).
Wander through the town’s boutiques, then explore La Flotte Market, one of the best on the island.
Head back to Saint-Martin for a chilled afternoon, browsing shops, grabbing a coffee or enjoying a drink by the port.
For dinner, book La Cible for a beachside table at sunset. The starters are the highlight, don’t skip the makis.
Day 5: Slow Farewell
Before you leave, you have to visit another favourite oyster hut, Cabane Océane. Order the special oysters, crevettes, rillettes, fish soup, clams and most importantly the hot oysters, which are genuinely unbelievable. All best enjoyed with a glass of wine overlooking the bay.
Spend some time at Plage de Saint-Martin-de-Ré, just a short walk up the coastal path from the cabane. Swim, relax on the sand, or grab a drink from La Cible’s beach bar.
For dinner, you could stay local or head to another town. Boudin Zinc in St Martin is definitely worth visting- it’s relaxed, feels very local and set in a pretty square behind the church. Go for delicious sharing plates, the fish fritters (accras du zinc) and tuna burger are must-orders.
If You Have More Time
Food and drink
- Saint-Martin: Ben Hur for lunch, Le Tout du Cru for dinner
- La Couarde: Le Balaou, order the cod fritters
- Ars-en-Ré: La Bouche Rit, order the pork chop
Beaches
- Plage de Gros Jonc
- Plage de Trousse-Chemise
Sports
- Sailing or windsurfing at Gros Jonc
- Tennis and padel at Ré Tennis Club or The Tennis Pertuis
Experiences
- Wine tasting at Les Vignerons
- La Baronnie Hôtel & Spa for spa, brunch or drinks at Bar 1721
- Boat trips from Saint-Martin’s port
- Day trip to La Rochelle